Siena and the Divine Comedy: we take a tour of the plaques
Dante and Siena: there is also a place for the Sienese in the Divine Comedy
No one is saved: Dante found a place in Hell, Purgatory or Paradise for all the prominent figures of his time, including some citizens of Siena. In 1921, to commemorate the sixth centenary of the poet’s death, the city of Siena commissioned eight marble plaques inscribed with verses which allude to particular places and characters. The plaques are all attached to ancient buildings, and walking from one to another makes a fascinating way to explore the historic city centre.
From the city gates to Piazza del Campo
You can start your tour at Fontebranda, the great water fountain near the gate of the same name. Cited in the “Inferno” for its waters, this imposing structure was the city’s main supply. From here, walk through the Oca district until the entrance to Via Vallerozzi, where you will see a plaque dedicated to Sapia Salvani, aunt of the Ghibelline leader Provenzan Salvani. This noblewoman, on the Guelph side, came to wish for the defeat of her city only because it was led by her nephew who was on the opposing side. From here, you continue towards the Casa della Consuma in Via Garibaldi, to admire the plaque dedicated to the Brigata Spendereccia (Spendthrift Brigade), which was based in this building. A group of young Sienese noblemen met together here and vowed to squander all their means within the space of a few years. The other plaques are all located near the city’s most characteristic square: the Piazza del Campo. In Via del Moro, a plaque carries verses relating to Provenzan Salvani, the Ghibelline leader who defeated the Florentines in the battle of Montaperti. A short distance away is the Palazzo dei Tolomei, residence of the wealthy family of Pia de’ Tolomei who Dante meets in the Purgatorio. The next plaque is also close by: dedicated to the Blessed Pier Pettinaio, it is in the alleyway of the same name and bears the verses in which Sapia Salvani speaks of the man who prayed for her eternal salvation. Continue to Piazza del Campo, and at Casato di Sotto you will see the verses that recall the humiliation suffered by Provenzan Salvani when he needed to find sufficient funds to pay the ransom of a friend taken prisoner. The last stop on this Dante-themed tour is in Via della Diana: once again, the plaque relates to Sapia, and her malicious words towards the Ghibellines of Siena.
A way to get to know the city
This tour of the plaques takes you on a walk through the old centre, so it provides a good introduction to the town as a whole, with its main sights and its typical alleyways. It is therefore a good idea to start your visit to Siena with this tour, as it will help you get your bearings a city that has architectural wonders at every turn. If you like, you can stop off during the tour to visit various important buildings on the way, such as the Basilica of San Domenico or the Church of San Francesco.